At somewhere around 6-7am February 10th we pulled into Jagroan. After a rather long drive from Delhi after a train from Agra (see previous post), we were a little tired but excited to see the home Pavan's family has lived in essentially forever. It is a small walled compound. This view looks from near the gate towards the back of the property and out towards the temple Pavan visited as a child.
At the family home we met "Cha Cha"; a cousin.
At breakfast we got our first taste of what would be our most serious problem for the next couple of days: nobody would let us do *anything* for ourselves. Fresh chapati and whipped butter (not sure of the Punjabi term) plus some sort of side, typically of vegatables with endless cups of Indian style tea was our morning staple. Simple but with a cook who has been doing it daily for years very very good. The bulk of the 10th was spent hanging out in Jagroan eating, lounging, and generally recovering a little energy. One charming aspect of Jagroan was that Rod could go for a stroll without attracting hawkers and beggers by the dozen. People would gawk a little, and Pavan was asked politely about who the white guy was whenever she went out and about, but nobody actively harassed. After Agra and the New Delhi train station such things seem very important. Our plan for the 11th was to drive north to Amritsar to see the Golden Temple (aka Harmandir Sahib), the holiest temple in Sikhism.